“THE UN-WEAVING”

May 2021

Just when we thought things could not get worse after Kobe’s passing, the pandemic hit us and put a dead stop to everything we had planned for 2020. With all the progress we made in 2019 we made the decision to move to the Philippines and planned our entire year around festivals such as FAHMFest and Undiscovered SF. With no end in sight for COVID, we pivoted our business and put our designs on hold to make face masks out of handwoven Philippine fabric that we purchased during Manila Fame 2019As we were being affected in the states so were our overseas partners in the Philippines. Some adapted to these changing times; others were left with little to absolutely nothing to get by.

With more than 1.2 million cases and over 20,000 deaths (World Health Organization), the country’s approach to curbing Covid-19 has been marked by missteps and confusion. Despite the global rollout of Covid 19 vaccines, the Philippines lags behind our Southeast Asian neighbors. The global economic collapse caused by the health crisis has been harshly felt among garment-producing countries in Asia like Bangladesh, India, Cambodia, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, and the Philippines. In this article, we take a deeper look into one of the hardest-hit industries in the Philippines.

In short, business in the fashion industry has not been as usual. Women who account for approximately 80 percent of the garment sector workforce, are heavily affected by many of the impacts of the pandemic. The tailors and seamstresses at PV Fashion Ent. were forced to stay at home when Philippine officials imposed enhanced community quarantine (ECQ) in Metro Manila and other high-risk regions to slow the spread of COVID-19.

Under the highest tier, Enhanced Community Quarantine, residents must stay indoors unless they can produce a pass that enables them to go out and buy essential items. Under lower tiers, certain businesses were allowed to be open, but some groups—such as the elderly and the very young— had no choice but to remain indoors at all times. During the long lockdown, public transport and intercity travel was prevented, disrupting domestic value chains. Even after the lockdown began to ease in June, excessive permits were required, and rules were not uniformly implemented across locales. Making it extremely difficult for weaving communities around the Philippines to transport their fabric outside of provincial borders.

The Philippines’ response to the pandemic is described to be one of the longest and strictest lockdowns in the world. In an interview with Paul, owner of Shop & Paul and co-owner of PV Fashion Ent., he says that he faces many challenges including “…low to zero sales because clothes were not a priority, closing of stores and malls so people weren’t going out which meant negative income, and travel ban on non-essential items - even when he has online sales there would be no courier to deliver the orders so they would have to be returned.” On his manufacturing side at PV Fashion Ent., to cut down on cost, he and his partner were forced to let go of some staff leaving them jobless.

Photo taken by For our Farmers PH, Inc.

To survive and grow in the new normal following the coronavirus pandemic, the Philippine apparel industry and weaving communities need support not only from consumers but also from key decision-makers in the business community. The pandemic upended nearly every part of the apparel industry in a matter of weeks, as people followed stay-at-home orders around the globe and had little desire or need to wear much beyond casual clothing. Many retailers have filed for bankruptcy but others are seizing opportunities to evolve their business and find new ways of reaching and exciting their customers. They are rethinking the supply chains and processes through which clothing gets made, as well as shifting sales to e-commerce platforms, focusing on what’s now known as “work-from-home” wear, and promoting more comfortable leisurewear.

Photo taken by Jilson Tiu @jilson.tiu

Communities have come together and help each other through movements such as the most popular movement "COMMUNITY PANTRY"- a movement that started in one area in Quezon City by a girl who set up a “mini bazaar” in the street with different food supplies for people to come and get what they need for free. This small gesture sparked others to join as people started to donate. As the movement became more popular, the signage in the community pantry became the number 1 rule- "Give based on what you can and Get based on what you only need". Since then the Community Pantry has gone viral in the Philippines and became a national movement where people would set up their own community pantries in barangays all over the country.

However, the government has recently issued with this movement explaining it’s a “communistic move” against the government. Rather than alleviating people’s hardships, Duterte’s administration have politicised this purely charitable act of kindness and repressed the growing community pantry initiatives by red-tagging its organizers, or accusing them of being communist rebels. Across the country, community pantries have reported surveillance, profiling, and harassment by police forces. Moreover, in these critical times, these community pantries demonstrate a revolutionary expression of human compassion, political activism and national solidarity that will continue to bring out the best of Filipinos.